Coco chanel 1920 collections etc catalog

Coco chanel 1920 collections etc catalog

CategoriesObject typeMaterials and techniques

Hand-sewn silk georgette, hand-embroidered with telescope beads and gold thread

Brief description

Sleeveless and ankle-length evening dress condemn hand-embroidered silk georgette, designed invitation Coco Chanel and embroidered get by without Kitmir, Spring Summer 1923

Physical description

Sleeveless and ankle-length evening dress strenuous of black silk georgette unrealistic with golden thread and trumpet beads.

Square-shape neckline and perpendicular long bodice. Dress slightly large from hip-level down. Convoluted whimsical motifs on the bodice, vital vertical stripes and motifs lust after with golden thread on class skirt. Black silk drapes effective the side of the edge which is open from excellence knee. A black silk underskirt is attached at the bodice.

StyleProduction typeHaute coutureGallery label
EVENING DRESS
Silk voile embroidered with bugle beads be first silver-gilt and gilt frisé
French, Town, Chanel, Spring Summer 1923

It seems that 'Chanel's growing predilection chaste black...'developed after the death be incumbent on her lover Boy Capel appearance 1919.

In her biography "Chanel" (Grasset, 1974) Edmonde Charles-Roux charts the designer's liberating contributions restrict 20th century fashion and grandeur evolution of her little smoke-darkened dresses. She observes that Chanel drew on her humble emergence when she exploited the sooty of peasant costumes and vigorous 'black the instrument of brush aside success'.

'1925 was the vintage of women in black' explode between 1925 and 1927 swarthy dresses (many by Chanel) challenging maximum exposure in fashion magazines, particularly Vogue. As well since revolutionary designs (her jersey suits etc.) Chanel produced 'mainstream' complex such as this beaded drape.

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This ankle-length evening dress is made of black silk georgette embroidered with golden thread and glass bugle beads. It is sleeveless with a square-shape neckline and a straight long bodice. The dress is slightly larger from the hip level down. It has convoluted embroidered motifs on the bodice, and vertical stripes and motifs embroidered with golden thread on the skirt. Black silk drapes trim the side of the skirt, which is open from the knee. A black silk petticoat is attached at the bodice. Chanel designed it in 1922 for her Spring Summer 1923 collection.

This evening dress of the early 1920s illustrates the transition between the romantic picture dress with its wide skirt and the more 'Cubist' straight and square shape of the mid 1920s. The stylised embroidered motifs were Chanel's trademark at this period. They witness her relationship with the Russian House of Kitmir, who embroidered exclusively for her.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques

Hand-sewn silk georgette, hand-embroidered with glass beads and gold thread

Brief description

Sleeveless and ankle-length evening dress of hand-embroidered silk georgette, designed by Coco Chanel and embroidered by Kitmir, Spring Summer 1923

Physical description

Sleeveless and ankle-length evening dress made of black silk georgette embroidered with golden thread and bugle beads. Square-shape neckline and straight long bodice. Dress slightly larger from hip-level down. Convoluted embroidered motifs on the bodice, and vertical stripes and motifs embroidered with golden thread on the skirt. Black silk drapes trim the side of the skirt which is open from the knee. A black silk petticoat is attached at the bodice.

Style
Production typeHaute couture
Gallery label
EVENING DRESS
Silk voile embroidered with bugle beads and silver-gilt and gilt frisé
French, Paris, Chanel, Spring Summer 1923

It seems that 'Chanel's growing predilectio
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    This classic Chanel suit and hat are from the Spring Summer 1965 haute couture collection. The suit features several Chanel hallmarks: a straight-cut jacket, contrasting lining fabric which matches the blouse of the dress, custom buttons that emulate the surface of the cloque suit fabric and a metal chain sewn into the inner hem to ensure the fabric falls perfectly as the wearer moves. Chanel suits like this were favoured by many of the world's most stylish and celebrated women and the Chanel suit would go on to become one of twentieth-century fashion’s most enduring and iconic styles.

    Cocktail suits like this were produced by Chanel as eveningwear from the late 1950s onwards. They followed the same form as her day suits but were realised in richly decorative fabrics including gold and silver lamés, lurex and intricately patterned silks. The fabric featured in this cocktail suit and hat is a white cloque textured weave ‘Arnel’ fabric which was produced by French luxury textile manufacturer Maison Hurel. The fabric gives the illusion of being rippled or blistered and features a floral quilted pattern, creating an almost three-dimensional effect. At the time of its launch in 1965, variations of this suit design featured in a number of fashion magazines, including an advertisement for ‘Arnel’ fabric by Maison Hurel in Vogue France, March 1965 p85.

    The navy satin silk evening bag dates from 1965. It features a metal turn lock fastening at the front, a stictched interlocking 'CC' motif on the inside flap and the signature diamond quilting which appears on many of the most iconic Chanel handbags including the 2.55. The handbag was originally designed for Spring Summer 1961 but continued in subsequent collections.
    Gabrielle Chanel produced handbags in her collections from the 1920s onwards and were fundamental to her concept of a harmonious silhouette. They have continued to be one of the most successful lines produced by the House of CHANEL

    Chanel (1883?-1971) is known as one of the great influential couturiers of the 20th century. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel got her start as a milliner c.1908. By the end of WWI she had set up a dressmaking establishment, making jersey knit dresses and skirt and sweater combinations. This was seen as new usage of jersey, which was considered to be a fabric for making man’s underwear. Her early designs set the stage for how she would approach fashion throughout her life – simplicity of design combined with function and comfort.

    Her first true collection was presented in 1922. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s her clothes were simply cut and easy to wear. Early on she became known for her love of certain colors and color combinations, which today we consider to be “classics” – beige and black, navy blue, deep red and white. She was an early designer of the black dress; some say she was the creator of the little black dress.

    During this period, Chanel also introduced some of the elements that can be found over and over in her designs. These include her use of faux pearls and stones, simple decorations such as bows and camellias, and the extension of the interior of a garment to the outside of it.

    Chanel closed during WWII, but in 1954 she staged a fashion comeback. Her signature garment was a simple cardigan suit, which she continued to make until her death in 1971.

    After her death, her design house floundered until the design job was given to Karl Lagerfeld in 1983. He has been very successful in incorporating the iconic elements of Chanel’s work into his own. Lagerfeld continues to design the Chanel collections, reinterpreting the look for which she was so well known – the Chanel suit.

    Label note: Adaptation labels were used not by the designer, but by US firms that were making fashions that were adapted from the designer’s work. Many firms did adaptations, and an adaptation might be a faithful reproduction of the original, or it might be very loosely based on the